It's Friday afternoon and my theater course of two weeks is over. It was really worthwhile in terms of meeting people and figuring out the festival. Honestly, I can't imagine that I would have gotten as much out of the festival as I have without some guidance, and in many ways this was some pretty high quality guidance. At least three directors of OFF plays came to speak in class and just told us how they came to be here-- the work, the contacts, the good luck, the financing; of course we had the wonderful actress for the first three days who knew everything and in addition, had us imitating chickens, writing two page plays and excercising our jaws besides listening to her stories! The second fellow was much more organized/academic but I did learn a lot from him. What is a PAIN is the french language when everyone is at such different levels-- most of it not great, either. More people joined our course along the way and we were about 10 today. I am making a point of never taking another course for non-native speakers of french!!
Plays this week: The Chess Player by Stephan Zweig---very well done; Les Monologues du Vagin (that's right!) and Nicole Croisille, a great dame of Chanson Francaise was one of the 'readers' -- very good; film for the class 'The Miser' starring Louis de Funes (the french answer to Jerry Lewis) very funny; Rendezvous au Chat Noir-- social politics in Montmartre, songs and satire--- good but hard to understand.
I will be spending the next week touring around and seeing plays before I leave here on Sunday July 29.
A note on the fish dish I mentioned the last time -- I found out from the deli lady that sells me my lunch everyday that the fish is actually 'worked' with olive oil as you would work a mayonnaise. That may explain the flavor. I am eating brown rice from the Camargue region just south of here with salt from the same area; the heirloom tomatoes are positively BODACIOUS! but they have the ordinary ones too; the famous Caviaillon melons are totally in season and are selling for 3 for 2 Euros and ordinary garlic is super crisp and powerful. I'm not buying anything that is organic.
That's all she wrote....for now.
Friday, July 20, 2007
Monday, July 16, 2007
A busy weekend
On Saturday I went out for my second bike ride, this time all cycling, no trains. I went east of Avignon this time, passing by St. Saturnin les Avignon, Pernes la Fontaine, L'Isle sur Sorgue, Fontaine de Vaucluse and then back to Avignon. The I used viamichelin.com, which is just like mapquest, to figure my distance traveled-- 83km which is about 50 miles. It goes by fast when you are looking at interesting things and following the signs CAREFULLY so as not to get lost. At Pernes I happened on a Saturday market where I sampled nougat and proscuitto-like ham from Spain. In L'Isle I had an unremarkable lunch next to the astounding 10 block long canal which is just beautiful. I went to Fontiane and was surprised and delighted that the whole 4km ride was on a road completely shaded by plane trees...once I got there I figured out why. The place has been occupied forever because of the abundant water that comes from the 'source' under the Vaucluse mountains. The river winds all thru the town... just beautiful, despite the tourists. I promptly found a green shady spot next to the running water in a park and took a nap!
On Sunday I took the train with my bike to Nimes, to see the some well preserved Roman architecture-- the Arena and the Square House. Both of these attractions were really well organized -- Arena had a portable tour guide that was like a cell phone --- even had sound effects of screaming crowds!! At the other place there was an IMAX like film and 3-D glasses--- some of the scenes were flights over the whole area around Nimes, notably the bridge at Pont du Gard which I visited last weekend. The bike allowed me to get around the town quickly and I had lunch in a park....not just any park...it was called Les Fontaines; leading up to it was a long canal on a street shaded by plane trees. There were fountains galore, but I was kind of suprised to see that there were not gardens. Lunch was a local specialty: La Brandade de Morue. Salt Cod in a casserole. It was great; I never tasted anything like it. A layer of mashed potatoes, then a layer of the fish pulverized with cream, then a light layer of cheese, browned slightly.
No rain here, and nobody is worried. Apparently all the water comes from underground springs.. remember Manon of the Sources and Jean de la Florette? That's what they're all about.
Friday night I saw L'Hymnus, a play presented by Roumanians in French. Last night I went over to the Palace des Papes to see about getting into the real keynote play in the 'IN' theater (my first IN) altho I did not have a ticket. I stood around holding a small sign 'Cherche 1 place pour Feullets d'Hypnos' and had one in about 20 min. Rene Char is the poet who wrote all of the short peices that the Artistic Director of IN put together into this play. I wouldn't really call it a play, as they just read the pieces, in a very modern decor. I think this author is well-loved by the french, but sorry, I didn't get much out of it, except perhaps it awakened some curiousity in me about his work.
More next time!
On Sunday I took the train with my bike to Nimes, to see the some well preserved Roman architecture-- the Arena and the Square House. Both of these attractions were really well organized -- Arena had a portable tour guide that was like a cell phone --- even had sound effects of screaming crowds!! At the other place there was an IMAX like film and 3-D glasses--- some of the scenes were flights over the whole area around Nimes, notably the bridge at Pont du Gard which I visited last weekend. The bike allowed me to get around the town quickly and I had lunch in a park....not just any park...it was called Les Fontaines; leading up to it was a long canal on a street shaded by plane trees. There were fountains galore, but I was kind of suprised to see that there were not gardens. Lunch was a local specialty: La Brandade de Morue. Salt Cod in a casserole. It was great; I never tasted anything like it. A layer of mashed potatoes, then a layer of the fish pulverized with cream, then a light layer of cheese, browned slightly.
No rain here, and nobody is worried. Apparently all the water comes from underground springs.. remember Manon of the Sources and Jean de la Florette? That's what they're all about.
Friday night I saw L'Hymnus, a play presented by Roumanians in French. Last night I went over to the Palace des Papes to see about getting into the real keynote play in the 'IN' theater (my first IN) altho I did not have a ticket. I stood around holding a small sign 'Cherche 1 place pour Feullets d'Hypnos' and had one in about 20 min. Rene Char is the poet who wrote all of the short peices that the Artistic Director of IN put together into this play. I wouldn't really call it a play, as they just read the pieces, in a very modern decor. I think this author is well-loved by the french, but sorry, I didn't get much out of it, except perhaps it awakened some curiousity in me about his work.
More next time!
Friday, July 13, 2007
News from Avignon & the festival
First thing is, it's really cooool here, I mean it seems to go down to about 55 degrees at night. People are wearing long pants and sweaters!
I just finished the first week of the course. The wonderful actress who started us off was only with us three days-- her name is Catherine Alias and she has a theatre company called 'Attore Actor Acteur' as her specialty is working with authors from Spain as well as France. She also speaks Spanish. I told her all about Theatre du Reve and she was very interested--- more on that when I get back. Our new prof is not in theater, he is just a big fan and very knowledgeable (sp?) about history, shows, people etc. Every day we do an hour on history, an hour of reading out loud, taking parts, some diction excercises and we are preparing Moliere's L'Avare (the Miser) in an abbreviated form that the prof developed himself, which they will perform without yours truly as I did not sign up for the last week of the month. It's fine, but Catherine was lots more fun and knows all the inside stuff on the festival, etc. as she has worked in & around it since 1990.
Plays I've seen: The Unbelievable Voyage of Pytheas (story telling); Le Voyage de Capucine (story telling); conference & reading on the book 'In the skin of the Actor' which has just come out in French; Le Medicin Malgre Lui, a musical version that was an absolute SCREAM; Fluide, a dance performance from South Korea; and finally Antigone (there are 3 versions of A in this festival!) which was the only show I've seen so far that I did not like-- Creon was wearing platform boots, a full-length black leather coat and he was sporting an Al Sharpton hairdo. I didn't mind his appearance, he was just not a good actor! Must be somebody's brother-in-law! By the way, I won't go into great detail here on this subject, but if one has the money, one can pretty much buy a spot in this festival. The price of a time slot varies between 3 and 7,000 Euros. Most of the actors in OFF are working every day for 3 weeks in the show and out in the streets, generating publicity by talking to people, performing and handing out cards. A lot of them are not paid. All this in the hope that the show will be picked up by organizers of other summer festivals, big theaters, etc. It's a market.
I have been eating very well and cheaply by picking up delightful prepared meals from the Traiteur (like a three star deli) in the market early in the morning and reheating it at lunch time. Today I had a wonderful piece of firm white fish like cod but better and a big slice of braised fennel with mirepoix. The day before I had what I guess you could call lamb's trotters, that is to say--- feet. It is a dish from Marseille called Pieds and Pacquets--- there are also little stuffed packages that go along with it.
I've about had it with this keyboard so I zill sign off for noz! thanks for the messages and e-mail!
I just finished the first week of the course. The wonderful actress who started us off was only with us three days-- her name is Catherine Alias and she has a theatre company called 'Attore Actor Acteur' as her specialty is working with authors from Spain as well as France. She also speaks Spanish. I told her all about Theatre du Reve and she was very interested--- more on that when I get back. Our new prof is not in theater, he is just a big fan and very knowledgeable (sp?) about history, shows, people etc. Every day we do an hour on history, an hour of reading out loud, taking parts, some diction excercises and we are preparing Moliere's L'Avare (the Miser) in an abbreviated form that the prof developed himself, which they will perform without yours truly as I did not sign up for the last week of the month. It's fine, but Catherine was lots more fun and knows all the inside stuff on the festival, etc. as she has worked in & around it since 1990.
Plays I've seen: The Unbelievable Voyage of Pytheas (story telling); Le Voyage de Capucine (story telling); conference & reading on the book 'In the skin of the Actor' which has just come out in French; Le Medicin Malgre Lui, a musical version that was an absolute SCREAM; Fluide, a dance performance from South Korea; and finally Antigone (there are 3 versions of A in this festival!) which was the only show I've seen so far that I did not like-- Creon was wearing platform boots, a full-length black leather coat and he was sporting an Al Sharpton hairdo. I didn't mind his appearance, he was just not a good actor! Must be somebody's brother-in-law! By the way, I won't go into great detail here on this subject, but if one has the money, one can pretty much buy a spot in this festival. The price of a time slot varies between 3 and 7,000 Euros. Most of the actors in OFF are working every day for 3 weeks in the show and out in the streets, generating publicity by talking to people, performing and handing out cards. A lot of them are not paid. All this in the hope that the show will be picked up by organizers of other summer festivals, big theaters, etc. It's a market.
I have been eating very well and cheaply by picking up delightful prepared meals from the Traiteur (like a three star deli) in the market early in the morning and reheating it at lunch time. Today I had a wonderful piece of firm white fish like cod but better and a big slice of braised fennel with mirepoix. The day before I had what I guess you could call lamb's trotters, that is to say--- feet. It is a dish from Marseille called Pieds and Pacquets--- there are also little stuffed packages that go along with it.
I've about had it with this keyboard so I zill sign off for noz! thanks for the messages and e-mail!
Monday, July 9, 2007
The Report !!
I've been keeping busy.
Friday - Saturday I saw four OFF plays: Cris du Choeur (musical), Les Fees Railleuses (storytelling), Respire Betty (Drama) and Barbara, Les plus belles histoires (musical).
On Sunday I finally got out on the bike. I didn't do what I expected to, but I had a fine day (breezy, at times overcast) and several kind folks along the route to help with directions. I went to see the Pont du Gard which is the Roman aqueduct triple decker affair over the Gard River. Only when I got out there did I realize that I had to take a very circuitous route to avoid the main road which is a four lane highway. So I meandered thru Rochfort du Gard, Domazon, Theziers, Fournes, St. Hilaire, Castillion du Gard, Vers-Pont du Gard (that was a mistake) Remoulins (this is where the bridge is located) Collias, Cabrieres, St. Gervasy, Marguerittes and finally Nimes where I got on the train and went back to Avignon. Pont du Gard is so huge in person! I walked on the bridge briefly and observed the locals who were kyaking, swimming, hanging out in the park or eating in a fabulous outdoor restaurant (I had eaten earlier and it was terrible), and I took a nap under a tree for half an hour. I had to cross a mini mountain with a 15 percent grade for 4 km. It sounds like a pain but for some reason it was really cool. I was very glad to pull into that train station at 4.30. This ride totalled 77km/48 miles. I will plan future rides to be shorter!
Today the course started and it couldn't be better. The woman leading our group of four in "Le langage a travers le festival" is an actress in her mid-forties. Very expressive and kind. Today she expained the history and politics of the festival--- cleared up a lot of mysteries for me. She also invited two young women who are in an OFF play to talk about thier experience. More on this at another time. Tomorrow we start the readings. No other anglophones in the course and all have pretty good french skills.
Lunch today was late. I was about to faint waiting for it to be served. The prof recommended a place outside the Palais des Papes and I had one of the specials. Started with mousse de courgette (zucchini) with raw salmon bits on top, then had the rouleau de volaille (chicken breast rolled around proscuitto and just a bit of cheese in a stunning sauce) next to a pile of well - dressed greens. I expected the chicken to be dry--- it was NOT. The dessert was fresh cheese (no translation) served with chopped chives that you toss on yourself. The price for this marvel was exactly 20E. I am learning not to order the bottled water. Just so you don't think I am living too large here, I eat omlettes and sardines back in the apartment most of the time.
Thanks for your e-mails!
Friday - Saturday I saw four OFF plays: Cris du Choeur (musical), Les Fees Railleuses (storytelling), Respire Betty (Drama) and Barbara, Les plus belles histoires (musical).
On Sunday I finally got out on the bike. I didn't do what I expected to, but I had a fine day (breezy, at times overcast) and several kind folks along the route to help with directions. I went to see the Pont du Gard which is the Roman aqueduct triple decker affair over the Gard River. Only when I got out there did I realize that I had to take a very circuitous route to avoid the main road which is a four lane highway. So I meandered thru Rochfort du Gard, Domazon, Theziers, Fournes, St. Hilaire, Castillion du Gard, Vers-Pont du Gard (that was a mistake) Remoulins (this is where the bridge is located) Collias, Cabrieres, St. Gervasy, Marguerittes and finally Nimes where I got on the train and went back to Avignon. Pont du Gard is so huge in person! I walked on the bridge briefly and observed the locals who were kyaking, swimming, hanging out in the park or eating in a fabulous outdoor restaurant (I had eaten earlier and it was terrible), and I took a nap under a tree for half an hour. I had to cross a mini mountain with a 15 percent grade for 4 km. It sounds like a pain but for some reason it was really cool. I was very glad to pull into that train station at 4.30. This ride totalled 77km/48 miles. I will plan future rides to be shorter!
Today the course started and it couldn't be better. The woman leading our group of four in "Le langage a travers le festival" is an actress in her mid-forties. Very expressive and kind. Today she expained the history and politics of the festival--- cleared up a lot of mysteries for me. She also invited two young women who are in an OFF play to talk about thier experience. More on this at another time. Tomorrow we start the readings. No other anglophones in the course and all have pretty good french skills.
Lunch today was late. I was about to faint waiting for it to be served. The prof recommended a place outside the Palais des Papes and I had one of the specials. Started with mousse de courgette (zucchini) with raw salmon bits on top, then had the rouleau de volaille (chicken breast rolled around proscuitto and just a bit of cheese in a stunning sauce) next to a pile of well - dressed greens. I expected the chicken to be dry--- it was NOT. The dessert was fresh cheese (no translation) served with chopped chives that you toss on yourself. The price for this marvel was exactly 20E. I am learning not to order the bottled water. Just so you don't think I am living too large here, I eat omlettes and sardines back in the apartment most of the time.
Thanks for your e-mails!
Friday, July 6, 2007
The Festival is here!
It's Friday and the town is starting to feel crowded. People are in the outdoor cafes thumbing through the giant catalog and there are young theater folks on every street corner handing out cards and flyers for their shows. There are a total of 110 theater locations in the 'OFF' part of the festival and each of these is showing about 6 different shows, more or less, through the 28th, to give you an idea of how many shows there are. And they start as early as 8.50 am and go thru 10 at night! There are about 30 shows in the 'IN' side of the festival.
Yesterday I retrieved the bike, fixed perfectly, and had a great lunch over by the Palais des Papes (right near where I picked up my 'OFF' discount card this morning) It was at a restaurant called La Fourchette (the Fork) and it was GRAND.
On the table before the meal was a bowl of very smooth tasting black olives accompqnied by 3 mini-biscotti flavored with tomato. I ordered breast of duck (magret de canard) in a curry sauce and zucchini. The diced sauteed vegetable was piled in the center of a perfect square white plate and the rare duck sliced were arranged on it. All was surrounded by a pool of this caramel colored curry sauce thqt hit just the right notes of sweet, hot & curry taste. Oh, there was a small elegant salad frist, and these big flat slices of potato on a separate dish grilled with cheese on them served with the meal. Instead of dessert I chose the tray of 4 cheeses and even the french couple at the next table were envious when it arrived. Same white porcelain; a small mound of bitter greens in the center, red peppercorns, some oil and dark vinegar dancing around the outside and four perfect peices of really smooth tasting cheese. I impressed the waitress by asking 'where do I start?' because you have to eat the mildest one first. She gave me a delightful explanation and repeated the names of the cheeses but of course I can't remember even one! Each was different, each perfect. My neighbor, who had ordered a dessert that turned out to be a veritable WALL of meringue, may have been regretting her choice. The lunch cost me 28 euros. Worth every centime.
Okay gotta go right now--- there is an opening parade I don't want to miss! Bisous!
Yesterday I retrieved the bike, fixed perfectly, and had a great lunch over by the Palais des Papes (right near where I picked up my 'OFF' discount card this morning) It was at a restaurant called La Fourchette (the Fork) and it was GRAND.
On the table before the meal was a bowl of very smooth tasting black olives accompqnied by 3 mini-biscotti flavored with tomato. I ordered breast of duck (magret de canard) in a curry sauce and zucchini. The diced sauteed vegetable was piled in the center of a perfect square white plate and the rare duck sliced were arranged on it. All was surrounded by a pool of this caramel colored curry sauce thqt hit just the right notes of sweet, hot & curry taste. Oh, there was a small elegant salad frist, and these big flat slices of potato on a separate dish grilled with cheese on them served with the meal. Instead of dessert I chose the tray of 4 cheeses and even the french couple at the next table were envious when it arrived. Same white porcelain; a small mound of bitter greens in the center, red peppercorns, some oil and dark vinegar dancing around the outside and four perfect peices of really smooth tasting cheese. I impressed the waitress by asking 'where do I start?' because you have to eat the mildest one first. She gave me a delightful explanation and repeated the names of the cheeses but of course I can't remember even one! Each was different, each perfect. My neighbor, who had ordered a dessert that turned out to be a veritable WALL of meringue, may have been regretting her choice. The lunch cost me 28 euros. Worth every centime.
Okay gotta go right now--- there is an opening parade I don't want to miss! Bisous!
Wednesday, July 4, 2007
I never want to leave!
Some impressions---
This city is loaded, I mean LOADED with charm. It is compact with lots of narrow streets, many of which have been transformed permanently into pedestrian streets. In many of the not-quite so narrow streets there are lots of very old, tall and leafy plane trees-- the ones with the green spotted bark. At every turn there seems to be tables outside shaded by trees or large umbrellas--- and people eating, drinking and lounging outside.
So far the weather has been ideal--- cool breezy and sunny.
I am so glad I came a week early to get situated and oriented before 250,000 visitors arrive----is that possible????
My bike arrived today qnd will be fixed by tomorrow afternoon. Charlie; you were absolutely right, they will just rebuild the back wheel. They didn't bat an eye about it.
There is an indoor market place right around the corner (I bet it's indoors because we are in the south) with a startling display of charcuterie, cheeses vegetqbles etc. Today I got those skinny french green beans, a fresh tomato, a tranche of pate and some salade de museau (sliced head cheese in a dressing) and that was lunch::: The beans were so good, they squeaked when I bit into them. Yes, I had bread with the pate--- mea culpa! Tonight I am going out for oysters with the landlord!
The plays are at most 1 1/2 hours long. I will see my first on Friday night. I guess they can run more that way: Every day there are more posters up!!! I am constantly distracted by them when I'm walking around--- maybe I shouldn*t use that term--- there is so much to look at and take pleasure in. It seems that every where I look there is something beautiful or interesting:::: really nice. Must go now. Send comments or Q to my regular e-mail address which I can't post here.
This city is loaded, I mean LOADED with charm. It is compact with lots of narrow streets, many of which have been transformed permanently into pedestrian streets. In many of the not-quite so narrow streets there are lots of very old, tall and leafy plane trees-- the ones with the green spotted bark. At every turn there seems to be tables outside shaded by trees or large umbrellas--- and people eating, drinking and lounging outside.
So far the weather has been ideal--- cool breezy and sunny.
I am so glad I came a week early to get situated and oriented before 250,000 visitors arrive----is that possible????
My bike arrived today qnd will be fixed by tomorrow afternoon. Charlie; you were absolutely right, they will just rebuild the back wheel. They didn't bat an eye about it.
There is an indoor market place right around the corner (I bet it's indoors because we are in the south) with a startling display of charcuterie, cheeses vegetqbles etc. Today I got those skinny french green beans, a fresh tomato, a tranche of pate and some salade de museau (sliced head cheese in a dressing) and that was lunch::: The beans were so good, they squeaked when I bit into them. Yes, I had bread with the pate--- mea culpa! Tonight I am going out for oysters with the landlord!
The plays are at most 1 1/2 hours long. I will see my first on Friday night. I guess they can run more that way: Every day there are more posters up!!! I am constantly distracted by them when I'm walking around--- maybe I shouldn*t use that term--- there is so much to look at and take pleasure in. It seems that every where I look there is something beautiful or interesting:::: really nice. Must go now. Send comments or Q to my regular e-mail address which I can't post here.
Tuesday, July 3, 2007
I'm here...!!!
Had a great crossing including a ligntning-fast trip to the airport courtesy of Von, and a seven hour flight due to a good tailwind. Things bogged down at the CDG airport where the train for Avignon left an hour late-- but my hosts were waiting when I got there, and they whisked me, my suitcase and my bicycle wheel into centre-ville.
Town is more charming than I had imqgined and the aparment is just fine. I picked up the two festival catalogs yeseterdqy-- the 'OFF' is 270 pagzes long!! Will write again soon: This french key board is reqlly a problem.
K
PS weather is cool/clear/dry!!!
Town is more charming than I had imqgined and the aparment is just fine. I picked up the two festival catalogs yeseterdqy-- the 'OFF' is 270 pagzes long!! Will write again soon: This french key board is reqlly a problem.
K
PS weather is cool/clear/dry!!!
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